Like all good critics, Gill does not give a flying whatsit what anyone thinks of him (or whether they might inflict actual bodily harm) and this makes him charmingly cutting and acerbic. I find him at his best when writing about home rather than abroad and I love that he has no problem smashing from their pedestals people like Elizabeth David who, as he rightly points out, did not contribute anything like enough to be deified, sanctified and bloody iconised (pretty sure that last one was made up). If you like people who don't mince their words, know their own minds and have a canny knack for a spot-on simile then you'll probably enjoy this book. And i'd recommend Giles Coren's Anger Management which is equally hilarious and quite rightly anti-vegetarian too, as all good Times writers are.